Thinking about lab grown diamonds? This post will give you the most comprehensive deep dive into laboratory grown diamonds, giving you more knowledge than 90% of the sales people out there and making sure you are getting the best quality diamond.

Having been in the diamond industry for over 25 years, working as a diamond grader, gemmologist and valuer and owner of a diamond boutique, I can honestly say I really love diamonds. I am often asked questions about jewellery and gems, asking me to pick my favourite cut, colour, or stone and at the end of the day, I keep coming back to a diamond.  

The questions I get asked more than most right now are all about lab grown diamonds; what exactly are they? Are they all created the same? Can you tell the difference, and most importantly should I consider buying one? 

For me, whether it is a lab grown diamond or a mined diamond, I love both and either can be perfect for you depending on what you are looking for in your diamond. My wife wears both mined and lab grown diamonds and the origin for the stone has not been a contributing factor for me, but I understand for some it may be. 

I am a big believer in arming yourself with all the correct information before deciding between lab grown diamond and mined diamonds and where to buy from. With the size of the diamond industry combined with the extensive amount of information on the internet, you might be finding it difficult to decipher what is correct and what is misinformation on created diamonds without the marketing agenda and spin. 

The first time I came across a lab grown diamond, I must confess I was quite sceptical. One of my suppliers had sent me an amazing two-carat diamond to look at. As I normally do, I checked the diamond for myself so I could grade it based on my own valuation. I looked at the colour, clarity, and the precision of the cutting, and was soon satisfied that I was indeed looking at an amazing diamond – one that would make someone incredibly happy to wear for the next 50 years. I then looked at the paperwork, and the first thing that struck me was the price. It was significantly less than what I was expecting considering the quality of the stone. I quickly rang the supplier to see if the pricing was a mistake and discovered it wasn’t. It was just the mining cost making the significant price difference.  

Can an expert tell the difference? Can you? 

I recently put myself to the test, to check whether I could tell the difference between a lab grown diamond and a mined diamond. I sat down, a little cocky, as the gentleman across the table from me presented 10 stones. I simply had to sort these into lab grown diamonds and mined diamonds. 

I started as I always do, picking up my loop and tweezers, as familiar to me as a pair of shoes that fit perfectly. Picking up the first diamond, I noticed a dark black inclusion on the edge of the stone. This looked like a familiar graphite inclusion that I had seen 1000 times of more. Easy first one, I thought. This obviously belongs in the mined diamond group. The second diamond I picked up was completely clean, so I placed the stone back on the table, gave it a wipe with the special microfibre diamond cloth, rotated the stone and picked it up again. (A widespread practice when assessing diamonds is to rotate the stone to make sure the orientation of the inclusion isn’t hiding due to the angles of light bouncing around inside the stone.) Still nothing? Well, this must be either an incredibly clean diamond, or it must be a lab growndiamond, I thought. So, it went in the created diamond category. 

Over and over, I went through this exercise until all ten stones were sorted. Announcing I was finished to my counterpart across the table with a little smile on my face, he asked me if I was sure and happy with my selection. To which my confidence slipped a little and I nervously replied, ‘Well, let me just have one quicker look.’ Having satisfied my curiosity, I decided I was happy with my selection. ‘How did I do?’ I (still somewhat nervously) asked him. 

The gentleman now seemed to know something he was reluctant to share. ‘Well, the thing is,’ he said somewhat apprehensively, ‘they are all lab grown diamonds.’ 

What? How is this possible? I thought. 

Realising that the game was up, I decided to have a look at all the diamonds I had marked as mined, scrutinising them from every angle. I had to conclude that, without sophisticate laboratory equipment, there really was no way to tell the difference between lab grown diamonds and mined diamonds, even with a 10x times magnifying lens. 

At first, I wasn’t sure whether I should be happy or upset that I couldn’t tell the difference; however, what I ended up taking from the experience was that my original prejudices around the origin of creation had absolutely nothing to do with how the diamond presented and performed. 

Are created diamonds better? 

How could something that is created in a lab be better than something produced ‘naturally’? Well, lab grown diamonds being as good as, or better, than mined diamonds may not be as far-fetched as you think. After all, advancements in technology are happening every year, and things were previously thought impossible are now normal. We are talking about travelling to Mars and 3D printing meat, just to name but a few such innovations. So why not creating high-quality diamonds? 

Aren’t all diamonds created? 

When you really think about it, all diamonds are created. Some are just created by the earth, and some are created by humans. The process used to make diamonds today is essentially replicating the conditions that occurred below the ground over millions of years. 

Mined diamonds are a billion years old, whereas a lab grown diamond can be anywhere from one to three months old, depending on the size and quality of the stone. 

Apart from the time factor, the only real difference is that one diamond is made below the ground and the other is made above the ground. Essentially, only the origin is different for each. 

Natural versus synthetic 

Interestingly, in 2020 the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) removed the word ‘natural’ when talking about a mined diamond. They argued it was impossible to have a synthetic element. We are either breathing oxygen right now or we aren’t, for example. The same goes with the carbon in a diamond – it is either carbon or it isn’t. A synthetic carbon simply doesn’t exist. 

The other interesting point here is that most people can tell from a considerable distance that other gemstones are the created versions – for example, synthetic sapphires look like blue glass. There is something quite distinctive about most created gemstones, and they just look fake or unnatural – and so are significantly cheaper. A lab grown diamond, on the other hand, is indistinguishable from a mined diamond. 

Simulate versus created 

As opposed to a lab grown diamond, a simulate is something that is like but not the same thing. In terms of diamond simulates, this refers to stones such as a cubic zirconia (CZ). At a distant glance, they might look the same as a diamond, but they don’t have the same optical or hardness properties. 

What about the negatives? 

As I’ve discussed, lab grown diamonds can be of such high quality it’s almost impossible to separate them from mined diamonds. And you can buy this high quality at a fraction of the price of mined diamonds. So, you might be reading this and thinking that this sounds like the best thing since sliced bread. A bigger and better-quality diamond, for less? What’s the catch? 

The main possible negatives relate to resale value for the diamond and whether it will hold its value. 

Resale value 

The truth is every diamond in the world is graded and valued for exactly what it is. If you pay $5000 less for a lab grown diamond now, for example, then it will be consistently worth at least $5000 less than the value of a comparable mined diamond. 

Holding its value over time 

I am not sure about you, but my crystal ball is on the fritz now, and I think anyone who tells you they know what the future holds should be treated with caution. What I do know is that all diamonds – mined and lab grown – move up and down in price. Many contributing factors influence the price of diamonds globally. When I recently checked the wholesale price of the diamond I purchased for my wife’s engagement ring, it had fallen $3000. (Of course, as I have mentioned, this is totally irrelevant to me, because I don’t plan on selling it.) 

While it might be true that products often get cheaper as technology advances, prices are still governed by the age-old forces of supply and demand. Late in 2020, for example, we did see a drop in the prices of laboratory-created diamonds. However, 2021 has seen not only a stabilising of the market rates of created diamonds, but also signs of an increase in rates as demand outstrips supply. 

These shortages are being exasperated further by delays in more reactors being built, which is placing further pressures on supply. 

Looking at the diverse types of lab grown diamonds 

Before I get any further into the features, benefits, pros, and cons of created, understanding the two distinct types of created diamonds currently on the market is important. Check out this video that shows the two growing procesess

High pressure and high temperature lab grown diamonds 

HPHT, or high pressure and high temperature, lab grown diamonds, were first invented in 1954 by General Electric and were predominately used for industrial purposes. 

In this process, the diamond is created from a ‘carbon seed,’ with typically a material such as graphite being used. Here they are essentially extracting the carbon from a solvent metal, under the required conditions of pressure (over 1.5 million pounds) and high heat (over 1400 °C) to grow the diamond. However, it wasn’t until the 1970s that gem-quality diamonds started to be produced. 

While HPHT diamonds are created using several different processes, many of these diamonds exhibit yellowish and brownish tints due to their exposure to nitrogen when being formed. They can also contain metal-type inclusions such as iron, nickel, and cobalt. These types of inclusions area-typical in mined diamonds, and so are often something that allows experts to identify them as lab grown. 

HPHT is also used as a post-growth treatment to turn diamonds that have a brownish or yellowish tint into ones in the colourless range of diamonds (that is, in the D to F range; refer to chapter 7). While the colour change produced post-growth using HPHT is permanent, it is important to be aware if the treatment has been used. 

One distinguishing feature of HPHT grown diamonds is that they will often have fluorescence, and may not show up on a diamond tester as a diamond in all cases 

The time frame for making a HPHT diamond is around one to two months. 

Chemical vapour deposition 

CVD, or chemical vapour deposition, created diamonds are different from HPHT diamonds in that the seed is an actual diamond, and the diamond is grown from a hydrocarbon gas mixture. This process is a more recent method for creating diamonds and has been used since the 1980s. 

Considerably less heat (800 °C) is used, along with myriad other techniques to cause the carbon-rich gas to bond with the diamond seed crystal to allow it to grow. 

The diamonds created during the CVD growth method are near colourless, attributed to the vacuum chamber in which they are created. This chamber limits the exposure to nitrogen and boron. When combined with what’s known as a Type 1a, or type 2a, diamond seed, this leads to a whiter finished diamond. (Type 1a diamonds are purely, or almost purely, carbon, and are the purest and most valuable of all – see the section ‘Under the microscope’ for more.) This means that the original creators found the most perfect diamond they could in nature and used this for the seed crystal, from which all the subsequent diamonds were created. 

Another advantage of a CVD created diamond is that it will never show fluorescence – refer to chapter 7 for more on how diamonds with low or no fluorescence are graded. 

In this process, the diamond seed is placed in the reactor and, over a period of one to three months, grows into the finished laboratory-grown diamond. 

Checking the certificate 

When buying a lab grown diamond, you need to check the comments section on the certificate to confirm the method used. Was it through HPHT or CVD? If created through CVD, does it specify that a Type IIa diamond was used? 

Value of created diamonds 

Creating diamonds is not like making a loaf of bread, where you put your ingredients into the mix and, if you follow the recipe, it comes out perfect every time. Creating diamonds has so many variables – relating to the required heat, pressure, time frames and growth rates – that it must be like controlling a spaceship and flying into space with Elon Musk. This variability leads to high fail rates, making the yield of the growth process incredibly unpredictable. Most created diamonds sit in the lower I to K range for colour and SI (G-K VVS-SI1) to I range for clarity (refer to chapter 7). This means that a created diamond in the D to F range for colour and in the VS range for clarity represents a small percentage of all diamonds that are created. If you’re sourcing such a diamond, you’re looking for something rare and hard to find (and so more valuable). 

This, along with the millions of dollars already spent in R&D, means that the value of a created diamond falling as low as $1 is incredibly unlikely. 

Under the microscope 

Diamonds are almost entirely made of carbon. The type Ia diamond, for example, is made up of over 98 per cent carbon, along with trace elements of nitrogen and other minor impurities in them. The type IIa diamond is almost exclusively made up of just carbon. (These make up just 1 to 2 per cent of all mined diamonds.) 

To get a better idea of the effect of trace elements on light performance, imagine you are looking through your car windscreen after having been driving for a couple of months. On the windscreen might be the general grime of pollution, putting a fine film on the surface, along the occasion bug that has hit your window and other nasties that have found their way on to your screen. All of this impairs the clean transparency of your vision. Now imagine your windscreen has been cleaned with a premium grade solution that has made it so clear you find it hard to tell there is a glass barrier there at all. 

At a microscopic level, this is like the difference between the type Ia and type IIa diamond. While the difference may seem small, it makes a significant impact on your diamond’s appearance and value. The type IIa diamond just has a certain crispness to it, and this type is possible with created diamonds. 

Interesting fact for the chemistry buffs on trivia night 

Carbon has four covalent bonds and nitrogen only has three. As mentioned, a type Ia diamond has carbon and nitrogen. Having nitrogen in the diamond’s crystalline lattice structure means it absorbs blue light, which leaves yellow light being emitted. Therefore, the more nitrogen a diamond has, the more yellow it looks. 

The type IIa diamond, on the other hand has almost no nitrogen, which leaves it facing up whiter. 

Considering the Sarine Light Performance report 

Along with the ‘four Cs’ of cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight (refer to chapter 7) a new measure of a diamond’s performance rates how it interacts with light – using the Sarine Light Performance rating. The highest light report ranking you can get using this system is an Ultimate3. With practice and skill, it is possible to select a stone that has the right proportions, cut, clarity and colour to achieve this ranking. However, it has been my experience that it is almost impossible for a mined diamond to reach this classification due to the quality of the crystal and the way the light travels through the crystal. 

Achieving an Ultimate cut grade (which is higher than the standard GIA excellent cut – refer to chapter 7) means that you diamond will sparkle more, even when dirty. Diamonds in the Ultimate range are simply beautiful and hard to source, which makes them even more desirable. Laboratory created diamonds are more likely to achieve the Ultimate 3 ranking than mined diamonds. 

Mined versus created – or taxi versus Uber 

One of the things clients often say to me is that they prefer a mined diamond because they believe it to be ‘traditional’ – to which I usually ask them if they use an Uber or a taxi. Almost everyone says they use an Uber, and I then ask, ‘Why isn’t a taxi ‘traditional’?’ 

The funny thing about technology is that it is often first seen with sceptical eyes, before being slowly adopted, and finally accepted and seen as common place. Even something such as buying online and having your shopping delivered used to be viewed with apprehension – putting your credit card information and address into the website? What if someone fraudulently purchased something on your card? Now no-one gives it a second thought. 

Are lab grown diamonds a young person diamond? 

As a rule, I find the client age line for choosing a created diamond is around 45 years. While it might be said that younger people embrace technology faster than the more seasoned of us, it isn’t always the case. 

I had a couple recently celebrating their 43-year wedding anniversary with a 4.6ct E VS1 round brilliant, created diamond. If they had wanted to go for a mined equivalent, they would have had to pay more than $120,000 extra. 

Spend more, save more 

While ‘spend more to save more’ might be a funny catchphrase aimed at getting you to spend more at the Christmas and Boxing Day sales, it really is true when it comes to diamonds. The bigger the created diamond that you choose, the more you save. At the time of writing, the average saving when purchasing a one-carat created diamond was $5000, while you could save $12,000 if purchasing a 1.5ct created diamond, and $25,000 on a two-carat one. 

The conversation I often have with my clients is around what they could do with the extra money. For a lot of them, the money saved can go towards a house deposit, paying for the wedding or even a house renovation. 

Clients often decide to either save the money they would have otherwise had to spend for a comparable mined diamond, or they keep their budget the same and increase the size and quality of the diamond they can afford to buy. Depending on the quality of the diamond you are looking at, for example, you can likely get around a 40 to 50 per cent bigger diamond for the same money. So, if you’re looking at a one-carat mined diamond, in a created diamond you would be looking at 1.5ct-plus size diamond, which is certainly a noticeable difference. 

The other bonus factor you usually find in a created diamond is that the cost of upgrading your quality is substantially less. For example, upgrading to a diamond in the VS range for clarity from one in the SI range might cost $200 in a created diamond, but might be $1000 more in a mined diamond. 

One of the joys of my profession is seeing happy clients after they have been proposed to. Usually, they come in and love to tell the story of how their partner proposed, and then proudly show off the ring their partner chose. What I have seen over the last two years is the elation that comes from their expectations being exceeded, not just in the size of the diamond, but in maximising the other three of the 4Cs – cut grade, colour, and clarity. Exceeding expectations in all areas becomes more possible when considering created diamonds. 

You may already know that my wife and I have triplets (plus one). One of the questions I am often asked it is whether the triplet pregnancy was by IVF. While it wasn’t, I have had many families and friends who have had their children with the assistance of IVF. 

Imagine if you were made through IVF and your partner was made through the good old-fashioned way. No-one would look at you as a synthetic human; you just had a different start in life. In the same way, you couldn’t walk down the Queen St Mall in Brisbane, for example, and pick out the IVF babies. A created diamond can be just as beautiful, regardless of its origin being from a laboratory rather than the ground. 

Engagement ring versus other diamond jewellery 

While initially lab grown diamonds were extremely popular with fine jewellery, such as diamond pendants, earrings and diamond tennis bracelets, the inclusion of a created diamond as the main feature in engagement rings has seen a huge increase in recent years. At the time of writing, the trend is about 70 per cent of all engagement rings have a created diamond in the centre. 

Our Ready to Wear Designer Engagement Ring collection is available in both laboratory grown diamonds and man made diamonds and you can check out our range here.

Proposed with an African mined diamond 

Having now helped more than 7800 couples choose their dream engagement ring, one of the things I love doing, being a romantic at heart, is to ask people when they come back in to have their ring sized and perfectly fitted is how their partner did with the proposal. They often talk about how nervous their partner was, how amazing the proposal was (especially if their partner had some proposal coaching) and how much they love the ring. 

I am yet to hear a bride talk about how amazing the proposal was because of their African mined diamond. At the end of the day, your diamond engagement ring is a symbol of your commitment together, as you start out on your adventure together. Its origins don’t affect your commitment or the story of your adventure. 

Frequent questions 

Through this chapter I’ve covered some of the initial concerns and questions most people have about created diamonds. In the following sections, I cover some more specific questions. 

Are diamonds an investment?  

To my understanding of an investment asset, a diamond meets none of the standard criteria (pink diamonds from the Argyle mind excluded!) You are not buying it to sell at some point in the future and make a profit. It does not pay you any dividends or returns, and the tax department certainly doesn’t make it tax deductible. The only investment it represents is in your happiness. I am yet to meet someone who would be happy about you selling their engagement ring. 

I often look at my phone in the same way. I bought it because of what it can do and the enjoyment it brings me (even when I get addicted to the many silly games that can be downloaded onto it), not because I was ever thinking of how much I might get for it at some point in the future. 

Can lab grown diamonds be insured? 

Insurance companies will insure your created diamond. Just make sure that you have your stone valued by a recognised valuer from the Australian National Council of Jewellery Valuers (ncjv.com.au/). The amount insured must relate to your purchase amount. For example, you can’t purchase a created diamond and insure it for the price of a mined diamond. The insurance company will just replace what it was that you originally purchased – so insuring it for more will just mean that you are paying a higher premium for no reason. 

Can they be valued? 

Diamonds are valued according to their ratings in terms of colour, clarity, cut grade, carat weight – and origin. So, your created diamond will be valued in the same way as a mined diamond would be, just with the relevant adjustment to bring it in line with what you paid. For example, if a mined diamond would be valued at $15,000 as a classic one-carat F-colour VS-clarity diamond (and you would have paid close to this for such a diamond), a comparable created diamond with the same stats might be valued at $8000 (and, again, you would have paid close to this). 

Are they graded the same? 

Lab grown diamonds are graded absolutely the same as mined diamonds, because they are a created to be the same at a molecular level. All the international diamond grading laboratories use the recognised grading system for colour, clarity, cut and carat weight. Your created diamond should come with an international grading report and be laser inscribed to authenticate your stone. 

Are they cut the same

Lab Grown diamonds have the same hardness and optical properties as mined diamonds, so they are cut in the same way. The diamond follows the same path a mined diamond would – in the way the crystal is selected, cut is plotted for inclusions and yield determined to get the best result, and right down to the shape of the diamond they choose to cut. 

However, there has been an expected windfall with laboratory grown diamonds – because the rough diamond crystals created are more consistent and regular, the cutters are often able to achieve a more ideal cut, whereas the irregularity in mined diamond rough crystals leads to more variation in the cutting. 

Do they have the same certification? 

At the time of writing, the main diamond grading laboratory for created diamonds is the International Gemmological Institute (IGI) laboratory. While the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA) laboratory was reluctant to grade created diamonds for the first year, they have now started grading created diamonds. However, their delay has meant that the IGI laboratory report is seen as the most recognised report to have when buying a created diamond.  

What happens if you put it on a diamond tester? 

Putting a lab grown diamond on a standard diamond tester will have it report as a diamond. Some newer diamond testers can check whether the diamond is a Type Ia or a Type IIa diamond, but this is not a conclusive test that a diamond is created. If the diamond shows up as a Type IIa crystal using this tester, further testing is then needed to confirm it is created. 

What does the future look like in the diamond industry? 

A lot has been made public on the topic of mined and created diamonds, and the ethics and sustainability of both. The manufacturing process for created diamonds requires enormous amounts of energy. Yes, some diamond producers use renewable energy to create their diamonds, but now this isn’t across the whole industry. What is undisputed is that they are not digging a massive hole in the planet that can be seen from space. The large volume of water associated with mining isn’t required with created diamonds either. 

Several diamond growers are also leading the industry in their attempts to be more transparent and sustainable – for example, in the following areas: 

· Verified origin traceability 

· Ethical stewardship 

· Climate neutrality 

· Sustainable production practices 

· Sustainable community and planetary investments. 

What these means is that a shift is occurring in the industry. It is no longer just about producing beautiful gems, but also about doing the right thing for the planet and the future generations. 

Origin traceability involves using state of the art traceability to track the diamond throughout its whole journey – from the diamond seed, through its international certification, right to the point where it is placed in a piece of jewellery you can have the enjoyment of wearing. 

Ethical stewardship involves companies meeting a set of 12 strict ethical principles to ensure that everyone in the supply chain is looked after from a human rights point of view. 

Climate neutrality means that a company must be climate neutral, not just in its current production, but also from the circumstances prior to the manufacturing becoming possible. 

Sustainability production can only be achieved by offsetting the environmental and health impacts. 

Sustainability investments are all about the role business can play in uplifting the vulnerable communities around them, and investing in protecting the climate, purifying the air, and protecting the waterways. 

Sustainably is a factor 

I would say that 70 per cent of clients I show a created diamond to choose it because of the 50 per cent size boost, while the other 30 per cent of clients choose it for the ethical, sustainability and environmentally friendly reasons. (I am sure a reasonable percentage of clients choose it for both reasons.) 

The laboratory grown diamond industry is escalating their sustainability developments with a focus on sustainability across the entire process, and their innovations are fast becoming an attractive aspect for today’s modern consumer. 

Concluding thoughts 

So, in conclusion, created diamonds are here to stay. The growth rate and acceptance rate of created diamonds is increasing at an exponential rate. Some stores in the US are now selling created diamonds exclusively. 

Whether or not you decide if a created diamond is a right for you will come down to where you see the value, because both options are beautiful. One has a story that some find appealing and the other has certain advantages, as outlined in this chapter. 

For me, as with most things in life, I find the best answer comes in seeing them for myself firsthand. An intellectual understanding is a great first step, but this is no substitute for seeing a mined diamond and a created one side by side. After all, you or your partner will be wearing this for an exceptionally long time, so it is important to make sure you make the right choice. 

From my perspective, the joy many of my clients’ experience in receiving a diamond that is beyond their wildest dreams is undeniable – and this they can often add the satisfaction of still having the money they need for the necessities of life, where they are right now.

If you want to learn more we also offer free diamond masterclasses, where you can come along in a relaxed setting and get to know more about diamonds than 90% of sales people put there!

Are you a little bit of a techno geek like me? Do you love the anticipation of getting your hands on the latest trend in technology? If you are then I bet you can’t wait for the newest Apple product to land (Yes, I am a diehard follower – sorry to all the Android lovers)

That’s why I was so excited to see the latest development in the diamond world, ALTR lab created diamonds. The idea that man can create a diamond absolutely blows my mind. It reminds me of the old cartoon The Jetsons, about a futuristic family who lived in the sky travelling around in hovercraft spaceships. Anything they wanted could be printed through a magic printing machine. Isn’t it funny how so many things from science fiction become reality?

Are lab created diamonds new?

While it might seem new, the concept of lab created diamonds has been around for over 60 years. It is just in recent years that they have perfected the art of crafting these stunning stones into gem-quality diamonds. But diamonds for personal use are just a small portion of what the future holds when it comes to creating diamonds. There are so many applications for having a transparent substance that is also incredibly strong. Can you imagine in the future having your iPhone glass face made up of diamond? No more replacing screens because you dropped your iPhone.  

Now, in the beginning, I was just as sceptical as the next person, I mean lab created diamonds? What changed my mind was a test given to me by the creators of these amazing diamonds. The creators placed 10 diamonds in front of me and asked me to separate them into mined vs created. I spent a great deal of time looking at each diamond, from the front, upside down and even in different lights. What I found though, was while I thought I could tell the difference between the two, the truth is I failed miserably. Considering I am a diamond expert and I look at diamonds every day, I found this quite shocking. The only way to tell the difference with a 10-x magnifying lens was by looking at the girdle where it is inscribed that it is a lab created diamond.

If you would like to learn more about how these amazing gems are created, check out my blog about ALTR lab created diamonds here. If you take the method of creation out of the picture ultimately what you are left is with a beautiful gem that sparkles brilliantly. I think deep down what everyone wants is to make their partner happy and give them the diamond they deserve and desire. In a perfect world, we could all afford to get the largest diamond possible for our partners. But in the real world, we all have expenses that we need to balance out. What I have seen over the last month with the clients I have shown the ALTR lab created diamonds to has been nothing short of amazing. Clients have been able to give their partners the diamond that will make their heart skip a beat.

While I know some of you are saying, it’s the thought that counts and your partner should be happy with whatever size their partner gives them. What I have come to see over the last 22 years and helping more than 6800 clients choose their engagement ring, is exactly 0% of them have come back in 6 months’ time and asked for a smaller diamond. Further, as we get older, we only want nicer and bigger things not smaller. So, the bigger diamond that you choose now, will undoubtedly last you longer, before you start thinking of upgrading.

I strongly believe in the power of storytelling through jewellery. Whenever I ask someone to tell me the story of how they were proposed to, they can often recant in detail where they were and what their partner said. Never have I heard them say, they proposed to me with a 1ct F VS diamond engagement ring. For me, the sentiment and story behind the giving of a diamond is the same with a created diamond as it is for a mined diamond. What is important is that you have chosen it for your partner and that he plans a romantic proposal, in a way that his partner wants to receive it.

What has been the most appealing thing about Lab Created Diamonds?

I would say for most of the clients I have served, the size is one of the most contributing factors. I mean who doesn’t love a bit of extra bling. When I got engaged 17 years ago, the average size of a diamond engagement ring was a half a carat. Today the most popular diamond size that we sell is a one-carat diamond. Even now we are starting to see that size increase with some brides looking at the 1.10ct – 1.20ct diamond sizes. So, my usual advice to the guys out there is to propose quickly, because I think we will be at a 2ct diamond size before you know it. At this point in time, it is hard to go past the ALTR lab created diamonds from a value for money standpoint.

The second benefit that often resonates with the clients I speak to is the environmental benefits and minimal carbon footprint associated with created diamonds. Today I think we all realise that we share the same planet and it is the only one that we have, so it’s up to us to look after it. Most people don’t realise that they need to dig up over 1000 tonnes of earth, not to mention using over 100 gallons of water just to find a 1ct diamond. Whereas the ALTR lab created diamonds have their own wind turbines to power the presses that create these diamonds and use a fraction of the water to yield the same 1ct diamond. So not only can you give your partner the diamond you know they want but look after the planet as well. And with every diamond being able to be traced back to the specific lab that it was created in, you can be sure that your diamonds are 100% conflict free.

The final question that I am often asked is, ‘would you buy an ALTR lab created diamond for your own wife?”. My answer is YES!!! Currently, I am looking for a set of matching .75ct diamonds to create stunning diamond studs for her. After all, they have the same physical, optical and molecular structure as a mined diamond, and according to the FTC, they are a diamond in every sense of the word. So, the only question you need to ask yourself is whether you are ready to join the future of diamonds with me?

lab created diamonds
FAQ on lab created diamonds

In recent times almost every industry has either gone through or is about to go through massive disruption, on a scale never seen before. The diamond industry is by no means immune to the changes that are coming with man made diamonds.

We have seen a marked increase in the enquires around created diamonds in the last month. Some is general curiosity, but most are as a genuine interest in purchasing a man made diamond. Up until recently, there has been little information about them to give a client the complete confidence in their purchase choice. The important thing to remember is that is exactly what it is – a choice. I honestly don’t believe that one will replace the other, just as Uber hasn’t completely replaced Taxis. If you are making an informed decision, you can be comfortable with whichever choice you go for.

 

How are Man Made Diamonds created?

Before going into the characteristics of laboratory created diamonds, it is important to understand that there are two main ways to create a man made diamond. High Pressure / High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Disposition (CVD). HPHT process mimics the high pressure that created diamonds in the earth crust. It uses a metal catalyst (graphite/carbon) to dissolve the carbon onto a diamond seed, essentially drawing the carbon out of ferrous metals. Whereas the CVD process in contrast uses low pressure but employs a vacuum which is fuelled with hydrogen and methane. Which means that it derives its carbon source from a vapour. The CVD method starts with a diamond seed crystal to grow the diamond, much the same way you might have grown crystals as a child at school in your science experiment.

You can watch how an 
Altr created diamond is grown here.

 

Born of Fire, Born Perfect : The making of a Type IIa ALTR Created Diamond from ALTR Created Diamonds on Vimeo.

 

Diamond crystal types

Diamonds naturally occur in nature as either a Type 1 (a/b) or Type 2 (a/b) crystal. The most purist and transparent form of Carbon crystal in the world is the Type 2a crystal, it has almost no impurities which leads to the colourlessness and only accounts for 1.8% of the world’s supply and is a rare quality gem.

 

Every Altr created diamond begins with a Type 2a seed crystal and is guaranteed to be only a CVD diamond, so it’s quality can be assured. Type 2a diamonds have much less nitrogen so they face up looking whiter and crisper, which is in line with their “Shine Brighter” campaign.

So that is most of the technical information out of the way. The simplest take way is that Altr created diamonds have;

  1. Same physical hardness as a mined diamond
  2. Same optical properties as a mined diamond
  3. Same Molecular structure as a mined diamond
  4. Will never have any fluorescence
  5. Will give you around a 20% bigger diamond for the same budget
  6. Often a cleaner diamond with less inclusions.
  7. Are completely certified and laser inscribed by the one of the worlds forensic laboratory (only 2 in existence), that even has a money back guarantee, if the stone hasn’t been accurately graded.

When I am showing a client an Altr created diamond, the first thing I will say is one was created below the ground, the other was created above the ground. That is essentially the only difference. Just like if you had two siblings, one was made by IVF and the other through the traditional way, you wouldn’t look at your sibling and call them a synthetic human. They just had a different start, but they are identical to you as a human in every way.

What a Man Made diamond is not.

A man made diamond is a very different stone to a Cubic Zirconia or a Moissanite stone, both of which are softer and have different optical properties. Both a cubic and a moissanite are known as stimulants, which means that they are like a diamond, but not the same.

What to watch out for in a created diamond.

The first thing to look out when shopping for a Laboratory created diamond is whether there is accurate disclosure around the way that it was created. Cheaper versions are made through either straight HPHT, or a combination of HPHT and CVD. If the stone you are looking at purchasing can’t guarantee the method of its creation, then it is most likely a cheaper combination creation stone.

Where your Laboratory created diamond is certified

The second thing to look out is for where the diamond was certified. If it is certified by IGI (International Gemmological Institute) it will be a cheaper stone, as the grading parameters for IGI are not as strict as the GCAL (Gem Certification and Assurance Lab). An IGI laboratory has been known to be a colour &/or clarity grade out compared to that of a GIA laboratory. Also, an IGI cert won’t tell you whether your diamond was created through HPHT or CVD.

As mentioned previously the GCAL is one of the strictest grading laboratories’ in the world and completely stands behind their grading. A GCAL cert in addition to the normal 4C’s information also has several additional features

  1. A Gem print – which is a unique optical fingerprint of your diamond
  2. Photomicrographs – which are actual photographs of your diamond, so you can see the actual incisions and faceting of your diamond.
  3. Optical Brilliance analysis – which is the overall amount of white light being returned to the viewer
  4. Optical Symmetry analysis – showing a coloured optical symmetry of the diamond, showing you a visual representation of the proportions and facet alignment. Man Made diamonds GCAL certificate

Minimal Carbon footprint for a Man Made Diamond. 

All Altr created diamond presses are powered by the earth’s natural wind cycles through the power of wind turbines. This renewable energy source creates the power required to form these amazing gems, ensuring that there is minimal impact on the environment.

Metallic inclusions for a created diamond.

Because HPHT created diamonds derive their carbon from a metallic source like iron, the inclusions found in them are often metallic in nature. These inclusions are often easily distinguishable and can even result in the diamond having a magnetic attraction to a magnet.

At the end of the day whether you choose a mined diamond, or a laboratory created diamond, will just come down to your own personal preference. Ultimately the choice will come down to whether it is more important to you that the diamond was created below the ground or whether you would rather have a larger diamond for the same budget. At the end of the day, the best way for you to decide is to compare them side by side and make the choice for yourself. So why not book an appointment and see the diamonds first hand and see if you can tell the difference.

We even have a special promotion on at the moment to celebrate the launch of the Altr created diamonds. You can WIN a .50ct F Colour VS clarity Altr created valued at $2900. All you need to do is book an appointment to come in and see them, to go in the draw to win this amazing diamond.

  man made diamond promotion

Like most ladies, I am sure you would love to know how to get diamonds for Christmas. I wish I could tell you that guys love shopping for your Christmas present. The truth is most of us hate going near the shops, especially at this time of year. Even worse there is a constant dread of choosing something that you are going to hate. So, what do we do? We procrastinate, we leave it till the last minute, then in the last chance effort, we dash to the shops on Christmas Eve to join all the other helpless guys looking for a present for their partners.

Sound familiar??


Why do guys do this?

I think it is partly because we don’t know what it is you really want, and partly because shopping for us guys is genuinely not an enjoyable experience. I am going to let you in on a little secret – we would rather be watching our favourite sports team, playing on our devices or pretty much anything else than spending hours at a shopping centre.

So, what’s the solution to not getting diamonds for Christmas?

Ladies, it would really help us a lot if you left a list of the things you would really like for Christmas, as well as a list of the things that you absolutely DO NOT WANT. I know that you think it is common sense not to get you a blender for Christmas, but for our practical minds, it simply isn’t that straightforward. We don’t take subtle hints, it needs to be written on a big sheet of paper in red and put on the fridge. Somewhere where we can’t miss it is ideal.

Secondly, tell us the stores that you would love us to shop at for you. Ideally, these stores should have great team members that will make the process easy and a pleasurable experience for us. Ideally, these stores should have ample comfortable seating, be away from the bustling crowds, and have offered us a beer or beverage of our choice while we are picking out your perfect gift.

So If you are tired of receiving the same type of gifts every year, try this new tactic and see if this Santa brings you exactly what you have been dreaming of. Not only will you get more of what you want, but we will actually thank you for making the process of choosing your gift easier for us.

Just in case your partner hasn’t been to see our new showroom. We have lots of beautiful diamonds for you to wear, a private upstairs diamond boutique with comfy chairs, a great team of diamond consultants trained to make picking out your Christmas present easy for them. If that wasn’t enough there is also an exclusive scotch bar and/or beer for them to make the experience one that they will want to come back time and time again.

We even have a special promotion running at the moment, to help you get diamonds for Christmas – you can find out more here #LetHerSparkle.

Choosing a jeweller

Just as no two individuals are alike, no two jewellers are the same. Every successful jewellery retailer operates in a particular niche. There are some that cater for the mass market, while some are more bespoke. I am not suggesting that everyone must go for the bespoke jeweller. Rather it is important to discover the jeweller who is right for you.  Outside of buying a house or car, your jewellery is one of life’s most expensive and important purchases. Although I would argue, it is the most important, as it is rarely ever sold or traded.  

Choosing a Jeweller – Chain Stores

Mass market or chain stores will usually have a price advantage because they are working on large quantities of scale. They actually analyse units of cost right down to the gram. Because they know, if they can save half a gram on a ring, then over 10,000 units it will make a significant difference to their bottom line. The unfortunate thing is, this prematurely shortens the life of the ring. The diamonds that are used tend to be from parcel groups. While there are savings to be made from buying diamonds in bulk, what you lose is the ability to hand pick the diamonds.

So you might end up with the best diamond in the parcel, or the worst. Most of the chain stores will also have a very limited warranty period. Most offer after care plans that you have to purchase to help maintain their products. As without this, the clients are likely to run into issues. These product care plans also form a significant recurring revenue stream for these jewellery retailers and can cost you a lot of money in the long run. The type of experience usually received is transactional in style. The staff are trained to show you the items in their cabinet and to help facilitate the transaction, giving you some basic diamond information.

Choosing a jeweller – BESPOKE

choosing a jeweller
Usually although not always, a bespoke jeweller will specialise in hand making your jewellery. There is definitely a difference in the standard of manufacturing. Metal that has been hammered and forged is always stronger as the atoms inside the metal have been compacted. Rings tend to be heavier, which means that they will last longer before claws need to be replaced and the bottom of the ring reinforced. 

The designs will also more likely be more unique, rather than a vending machine style process, where as soon as you take one out of the cabinet, it is replaced with an identical copy.In a diamond specialist boutique, the diamonds are more likely to be hand selected.
Having your diamond specially selected for you means that you have more control over the diamond parameters, so that you end up with a diamond that’s perfect for your partner.

With bespoke jewellers, you should expect things like a lifetime manufacturing warranty come as standard on the jewellery they craft. It always amazes me when I hear someone who is willing to spend a considerable amount of money on an item that they will have for the next 50 years from someone who is only willing to guarantee it for 12 months. A bespoke jewellery store should offer more of an experience that a mere transaction. It should be less about just forcing you to choose something out of the cabinet because it is convenient, and more about finding the piece that is the perfect fit for you, with an experience you will always remember. Bespoke jewellers generally have more expertise than a generalist jeweller and should be able to answer any diamond questions that you have, so you have complete peace of mind.

Choosing A Jeweller Who’s Right For You

At the end of the day, which store you choose is entirely up to you. As long as it is an informed choice, you can always look back without regrets. Take the time, do your research, have a look at the Google reviews and find the jeweller that’s right for you. If you would like more help in how to choose the perfect diamond and engagement ring, you can find out everything you ever needed to know from the international award winning book – Rock Her World “The ultimate guide to choosing the perfect engagement ring”

Believe it or not Christmas and New Year’s Eve are the two biggest events on the calendar for proposals. Having helped over 5800 couples on their journey to finding their perfect engagement ring, it never ceases to amaze me how popular this time of year is.

I can’t really blame guys for choosing this time to propose. Everyone is normally taking time off with their partners to celebrate the holiday season, families are coming together, and lets be honest a fair amount of holiday cheer is involved. Whatever your reason for choosing this time of year to get engaged i have;

7 important tips that will help your proposal go off with a bang!

Often the process of choosing an engagement ring can be all consuming, and it seems to take everything they have just to make this important decision. One of the great things i get to do is to coach guys through the process not just about buying an engagement ring, but all the things they need to do before and after the pick up the ring.

Just remember, it doesn’t need to be difficult. Choosing an engagement ring can not only be easy, but also a fun and enjoyable experience as well. So if you have been thinking of taking the plunge this Christmas time – Don’t put it of any longer. 🙂

If you would like help, in choosing the perfect engagement ring, there is a lot of great information in my recently published book, “Rock Her World” or you can listen to a sample chapter here
Rock Her World

 

hate your engagement ring

Have you ever wondered what you should do, if you hate your engagement ring. I know hate is a very strong word, and most ladies would be happy with whatever their partner chose.

But for some the engagement ring is their most prized possession, so it simply has to be perfect.  

So if you find yourself in the position with an engagement ring that is not your dream ring, don’t panic. There are always things you can do to make sure your engagement ring is perfect – the way you always dreamed it would be. Here are a few options that you have up your sleeve if you hate your engagement ring. 

 

Timing To Tell Him You Hate Your Engagement Ring

If you are really unhappy with the engagement ring your partner has chosen for you. Telling him, when he is down on one knee professing his love for you, might not be the right time. Soak up the moment, and just enjoy the journey of being engaged. If you find that you still hate your engagement ring after a couple of weeks, then it might be a good sign that the engagement ring is not the perfect ring for you. If you decide that your engagement isn’t the ring for you, then you need to choose the perfect time to have the conversation with your partner. Choose a time when both of you are relaxed, a good option is after a romantic dinner, where you both have the time to talk openly. 

Communication About Why You Hate Your Engagement Ring

What to do if you hate your engagment ring

Good communication is the key. Make sure you partner understands that it isn’t a reflection on the commitment you share to beginning your new life together. Understand that your partner, has probably put a lot of thought into choosing your engagement ring. Spent many hours researching and going from shop to shop, trying to find “The One”. It may have also been one of the most significant purchases of his life. Remember above all, he really wants you to be happy. Speaking from a guys perspective, i would want my wife to tell me, if she didn’t like something that i gave her. The worst scenario in my mind, would be to find out 20 years later that she never liked her engagement ring. Another way to explain it to your partner, is to imagine that they could only wear one shirt for the rest of their life, i am sure that they would want to make sure they really loved it. 

Exchange It – If You Hate Your Engagement Ring

The best option here is to talk to the jewellery store where the ring was purchased. Any reputable jewellery store that is interested in keeping their clients happy, will be invested enough to help you with find an option that you are happy with. The first thing to keep in mind, if you go down the path of changing your engagement ring is to be clear on what it is exactly that you don’t like about your engagement ring. The worst outcome, would be to change the engagement ring, to something new, only to be unhappy with your second choice, and have to go through the process again. 

Modify It – If You Hate Your Engagement Ring

Sometimes the thing you don’t like about the ring might be only minor. If the alteration you are wanting is not to major it might be possible to modify it. Things that are easy to do, are things like changing the profile of the band. For example, if you ring has a flat profile or a knife edge, you are able to soften the edges and make it look more round, giving it a more dainty finer look. Setting heights can also be lowered, if you feel the engagement ring is too high.

Remember issues of the heart always need to be treated with care. So make sure you always tell your partner how much you love them. Pick the right moment, and if you think it might help, buy him the gold club set that he has been eyeing off to soften the blow.

Would love to hear your thoughts, If you didn’t love your engagement ring, how did you tell your partner, and what did you do?

So you have decided that it is finally time to choose an engagement ring. Whether you are the future groom to be and have popped the question, or choosing to find the dream engagement ring together as a couple, here are the 5 steps you need to follow when choosing an engagement ring. 

choosing an engagement ring

 

1. CHOOSING AN ENGAGEMENT RING STYLE

Advice for the guys when choosing an engagement ring – This is ground zero and the first thing you should try and tie down. If you are going alone, try and choose a style that compliments her current jewellery tastes. If her style is vintage, then look for Art Deco designs. If she is more of a traditional girl, then a classic solitaire design is likely to be the winner. If you really get stuck, have a look at her Pinterest, Facebook and Instagram profiles. You are sure to find plenty of pointers there, about the style of ring she loves.

For the ladies – When choosing an engagement ring, try on as many different styles as you can.  Look for the things you love in each design. A skilful designer will be able to combine all the different things you love into your one dream ring. You will know when you find “THE ONE” it will be the design that makes your heart skip a beat. 

Advice tip – Don’t worry if you can’t find your dream ring in any of the stores you visit. If you could find it everywhere, it probably wouldn’t be as special and you wouldn’t love it as much. 

At this stage of your journey forget about the diamond size, quality and budget. If you only ever look at a particular budget you might miss your dream ring. Once you have found your dream engagement ring, a professional jewellery designer should be able to customise your dream ring design to suit any budget or stone size. 

2. THE STONE SHAPE

choosing an engagement ring diamond

In the beginning when you are choosing an engagement ring you really want to just focus on what shape diamond. Do you love the traditional round brilliant cut diamond? Or are you looking for something a little more modern in the princess cut? If your partner has long slim fingers than maybe a fancy cut diamond like the pear, oval or marquise cut diamond might be ideal.Also consider whether it is a single stone ring you are after, or whether you would like to have shoulder stones. If you are wanting to have shoulder stones in your engagement ring, explore all the options. Whether to match the shape of your centre stones to your shoulder diamonds is really a personal preference. 

 3.THE QUALITY

This can sometimes be one of the most challenging elements to balance. Do you go for a larger diamond of lower quality? Or choose a diamond that is slightly smaller and more brilliantly cut? At the end of the day, where the diamond sits on the 4C’s will not only tell you how beautiful the stone is, but ultimately how much it costs. While everyone’s preferences might be slightly different, it is important to compare a number of stones side by side, to see which diamond appeals to you the most. As a rough guide, try and stick with an excellent cut grade, D – F colour, VS – SI clarity, and wherever the size fits within the budget. If you really want to learn more about why one diamond appears more brilliant than another, the best advice is to go to a jewellery store with a qualified diamond grader. Someone who can break down exactly where your diamond sits in the cut and quality spectrum. 

4. METAL CHOICE

choosing an engagement ring metalOne of the common questions raised when choosing an engagement ring is whether to go with platinum or white gold. The usual advice that I give to new clients choosing their engagement ring is “Do you have a spare $1000 dollars?” As this is usually how much the upgrade to platinum will cost. If the answer is yes, then by all means upgrade your metal choice to platinum. If No, then 18ct white gold is still an exceptional metal choice. For some clients, it might make more sense to upgrade their diamond to a larger or better quality stone, rather than upgrading their metal. 

5. THE BUDGET

This is the last thing I often go through with couples and men that I see when they are choosing an engagement ring. Once you have found the design that you love, it is really easy to make it with a different size centre stone. While some might have you believe that you need to spend 3 months salary (before tax and including bonuses), the truth is that you just need to pick a figure that you both feel comfortable with. This is something special that you are going to have for a very long time, and you want to make sure that it is something that you can be proud of for many years to come. Whatever your maximum budget is, spend it and try and get the best quality you can. In the years to come, you will never regret the money that you spent. 

Above all else, enjoy the process of finding and choosing an engagement ring. Your diamond consultant is there to help guide you through your journey. It should be an experience that you will never forget, and one that will bring you happy memories for many years to come. If you would like someone to help guide you through your journey of finding your perfect engagement ring, we always on hand to help you. If you would like to make an appointment to see one of our diamond consultants, please feel free to email us

 

 

How to know if your rhodium plating isn't working

Rhodium plating is something that is done almost every day in a manufacturing workshop. Because it is something that is done by hand, there are times when it doesn’t always work out as perfectly as you would like. Every good workshop should have someone who is appointed as a quality control agent. Here are the things that you should look for after having your ring rhodium plated.

1. Does your ring have rhodium burn ?

This effect usually occurs when the ring has made contact with the metal electrode. It can sometimes look like a dark spot of the ring. This can usually be fixed quite easily by giving the ring a light polish in the affected area. If it is on the inside of the ring, the ring will usually not need re-plating. 

2. Does your ring look grey after rhodium plating ?

Every time a ring is rhodium plated it draws some of the rhodium out of the solution (which makes the solution weaker) and makes the end result less white. This can be fixed by filtering the rhodium solution through a graphite powder filtre or topping up the solution with some new rhodium. 

3. Can you see join lines in your ring ?

White gold solder generally has a slightly darker colour. When a ring is rhodium plated it masks this discolouration. If you can easily see the join line, it either means that the solder has been polished out though the process (as it is softer than the gold) or the rhodium plating hasn’t binded to the new ring properly. Unfortunately the only solution here is to re-do the whole process.

At Xennox Diamonds we make sure that all our work has been checked by our master jewellers to make sure your ring leaves our workshop as perfect as it can be. If for whatever reason you are not happy with any element of the ring, we will change it to make sure you are 100% happy with the finished piece.  If would like an impartial second opinion on any piece of jewellery that you have serviced and are unhappy with the result. Please come in and see our jewellers any time, or email me at info@xennoxdiamonds.com.au Any other questions that you might have, please leave a comment below. 

Resizing rings is something of a daily occurrence for manufacturing jewellers. However it never ceases to amaze me how many times I hear from clients who have been to other jewellers that a ring can not be resized to suit their fingers. While it may be difficult at times to resize a ring, it is rarely impossible. The following is a list of some of the rings that we often resize.

resizing engagement rings

Resizing Engagement Rings

  1. Simple wedding rings
    1. Can be as simple as stretching, compressing or tapping to change the size by 1-2 sizes.
  2. Diamond set engagement rings 
    1. Provided the original settings are secure, changing the size up to at least 3 sizes is no problem. 
  3. Coloured stone engagement rings
    1. While a little more challenging, as long as the stones are protected from the heat, the change in size should be fine.
  4. Multi stone engagement rings
    1. Depending on the way the ring was made, and how many solders were used this ring is also no problem for a trained master jeweller. 
  5. Pave set engagement rings
    1. At times the most problematic, especially if the stones have been micro pave set. While stones might come loose during the resizing a professional diamond setter, should have no problem tightening the stones. 
  6. Platinum Rings
    1. Resizing a platinum ring should not be any trouble, as the metal part being heated is usually at the bottom of the ring and far away from the diamonds. Diamonds can be burnt if the high intense flame used to solder platinum is put near the top of the setting. 
  7. Titanium rings 
    1. While a titanium ring can not strictly be resized. Sometimes it can be stretched up half a size, or the inside of the ring can be taken out to increase the internal diameter. 

If you ever have any questions about resizing your diamond engagement ring, please don’t hesitate to email me, or post a comment below. If your ring doesn’t sit well, don’t put up with it, come and see us.The Xennox Diamonds team are always here at your disposal to answer any of your jewellery questions. With our onsite master jewellers there is almost no ring that we can’t resize. 

 

 

 

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