Jewellers and setters are very different trades even though they are connected to the same industry. Just as plumbers and electricians are separate trades but connected to the building trade, so too are jewellers and setters unique. Jewellers are involved in the construction of the ring, while setters are the ones responsible for securing the stones.   While some jewellers can set stones, it is usually best to leave it to a professional gem setter.

Jewellers

In Brisbane to become a jeweller, you must complete a four year apprenticeship under a fully qualified jeweller. As in all apprenticeships, apprentices of the appropriate age are able to receive a learning wage, which makes it economical for the employer to train them. In their 4 years, apprentices should learn all the basic techniques of making simple rings and carrying out repairs. At present, and at least for the next few years you are able to complete your jewellery apprenticeship in Brisbane. However due to falling numbers at Tafe and reduced government funding the future of jewellery apprenticeship scheme seems uncertain. 

Why do you need a hand made jeweller ?

Jewellers hand making fine jewellery

Jewellery that is made especially for a particular stone is always going to be better than an “off the shelf” setting that is trying to be squeezed or stretched to fit the stone. This is especially important in three stone settings, where it is vital that the stones overlap. A professional jeweller, must not only make sure that the stones and claws are positioned in the correct places, but the shoulder stones must be angled correctly to create a pleasing level appearance. When a jeweller is making a ring, they are constantly making adjustments to improve the aesthetics of the ring, something that is impossible to do in CAD or mass produced style rings. Metal that has been hammered is also always harder and tougher than cast metal. A mass produced ring, has very little room for modification, because all the pieces are set in their current positions. 

 

Setters

In Brisbane there is currently no provision for completing a setters apprenticeship. In England, a setters apprenticeship is normally five years. However here there is no such apprenticeship for setters, neither is there any subsidy for employers to train setters. Consequently there are no new setters being trained. The only new setters entering our industry are those that have traveled here from overseas, or are jewellers that have crossed over to become full time setters.jewellery setters bench

What exactly do setters do ? and why are they so important ?

Setters are crucial to maintaining the highest quality finish of a piece. Even if the ring is expertly hand crafted, if it is set poorly, the finished ring will look terrible. It is the setters job, to ensure that the stones are not only secured correctly and tightly into the ring, but they are also set level and straight. Stones that are not securely are prone to coming loose and falling out over time. If the shoulder diamonds  have not been set well, there may be gaps between the stones. Channel set rings, will not have straight bright cuts (the inside lines between the stone and the metal) , and their may be gaps at the end of the channel. This will become noticeable as the rings become dirty, as the dirt often gets trapped in the gaps. It goes without saying that the centre stone should be properly set. Poorly set centre stones, will not only through off the symmetry of the ring, if they are not set in the middle, but they can also be prone to coming loose, and if not regularly checked – lost. Another symptom of a stone that hasn’t been set correctly is catching of threads under the claws. A properly set stone should be nice and smooth on top, and have no gap between the stone and the claw. If you are finding that your clothes are catching on your claws, simply bring them into us, and we can secure the claws correctly on your stone.

At Xennox Diamonds, we have full time jewellers and a setter, to make sure there is never any compromise in the finished product. Our standard for choosing to only work with the best diamonds and metals, applies to our jewellers and setter too, to ensure that you will receive enjoyment from your treasured piece for many years to come. If you are finding your are having problems with your setting, please don’t hesitate to email us, or pop in for a free inspection.

Diamonds….. Is there such a thing as too many ? In years gone by, a traditional wedding band was considered just a plain band, either in white gold or yellow gold. However these days the traditional band is more an exception rather than the rule. In my experience only 1 in 50 brides will ask for a traditional wedding band. If you are trying to decide whether you should have a diamond wedding band, here are a few important things to consider.

Diamonds in your wedding bands

A few rules of thumb

If your diamond engagement ring is a traditional solitaire, then either a diamond wedding band or a traditional wedding ring will suit. However If your engagement ring has diamonds in the shoulders, then the complimentary wedding band is almost always a matching diamond wedding ring. Usually the width of the band compliments the engagement ring. Unless of course the engagement ring is quite wide (greater than 4mm), then it is quite acceptable to have a finer wedding band (around 2mm-2.5mm).

Matching your diamonds setting style

Diamonds in your wedding ring

As mentioned in the previous paragraph, if you are matching the width, then it is a good idea to match the setting style as well. If you are going finer, then a great style to utilise is a grain setting. A grain setting, so named, because the beads holding the diamonds in, look like little grains, is ideal for creating a diamond border. This diamond border affect can really accentuate the centre engagement ring. Sometimes if you are choosing a wedding band that is much finer than the engagement ring, it is a good idea to go for a split diamond wedder. This is usually done to create symmetry with your ring. Depending on your need for symmetry, some brides will wait for the first year eternity ring, others will jump at the opportunity for some extra “bling”.

If a grain set wedding band is not your style, another style to consider is a shared claw wedding band. When selecting this style it is crucial that you ensure the band width is 3 tenths of a millimetre wider than the diamond. For example, if the diamond used is a 2mm diamond (0.03ct) than the width of the band should be 2.3mm. This is done to ensure the diamonds are not over hanging the band. If this was to occur, it will cause the diamonds to come loose more often, as they bump against the engagement ring.

Changing diamond shapes

diamonds in your wedding band

Normally it is a good idea to match your wedding band diamonds to the shoulder diamonds of your engagement ring. The exception to this is with a princess cut diamond. Princess cut diamonds are best suited for channel settings, where the corners can be protected. If you would like to create a contrast, round brilliant cut diamonds seem to be the ideal all rounder, particularly if you need a fitted (curved) wedding band. The claws that sit in between the round diamonds create a more square effect, yet still allowing the wedding band to curve around the setting. 

Word of advice

If you want to vary the width of your wedding band, then it is a good idea to vary it by at least half a millimetre. That way the variation will look intentional, rather than you tried to match the engagement ring unsuccessfully.

Whether you decide to have a diamond set wedding ring or a traditional band, will come down to your own personal taste. Ultimately there is no right or wrong ring, as long as you like the way that it looks and that it meets all of your requirements. If you are ever unsure what wedding ring suits your engagement ring, we are always here to show you all the options, so that you can see whether diamonds in your wedding band are for you. 

As an award-winning jeweller, we would love to work with you and help you create your dream wedding ring.

Alternatively, why don’t you come to our luxury showroom and we can talk in person? We would love to have you here for a Discovery Session where we can help you choose the wedding rings that will suit you best.

Let us take some of the pressure off some of those things on your wedding to-do list so all you have to do is book an appointment today.

Cleaning your diamonds at home doesn’t need to be an expensive exercise. While ultrasonic cleaners can make the job of cleaning your diamonds easier, you don’t need to spend a lot of money on expensive solutions. Below are 5 tips on cleaning your diamond and how you can keep your diamond looking sparkly whether you are at home or travelling on holiday.

ultrasonic cleaners for cleaning your diamonds
ultrasonic cleaners for cleaning your diamonds

1. Using near boiling water is one of the best ways of cleaning your diamonds

Cleaning the dishes with cold water wouldn’t be very effective, and it is the same with cleaning your diamonds. Hot water is perhaps the most essential ingredient, as it helps to break down any soap and hand cream which has accumulated on the jewellery. While it is a case of ‘the hotter the better’, I normally recommend just under boiling temperature for cleaning your diamonds. The melting points of gold and diamonds are much higher than 100 degrees Celsius. Please be aware it is not advisable to do this with pearls, opals, or emeralds.

2.      Add a small amount of detergent              

While almost any detergent that you have in the kitchen will do, a squirt of dish washing liquid is ideal for cleaning your diamonds.

3.      Use an old toothbrush to clean around diamonds

An old toothbrush is a great tool for getting into all those tricky areas. When using the toothbrush, use a dabbing motion rather than a scrubbing action. The dabbing motion will help the bristles to find their way underneath the diamond.

4.      Time to soak

Leave your rings or jewellery in the hot solution for around 5 minutes. Then after giving them a scrub, re-soak them for another 5 minutes if required.

5.      Avoid using hand cream while your rings are on

To keep your diamonds looking as bright as they can be for as long as possible, try removing your rings when you are putting on hand cream. When your hands are dry, it is safe to put your rings back on. 

If you find that you are not able to clean your diamonds well enough at home, we offer a free professional cleaning service that can be done while you wait.

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