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Buying a diamond engagement ring is not only a big emotional commitment but a significant financial one for most couples. While the internet is usually a great tool for conducting some initial research before buying a diamond, it can become difficult when you need to make a price comparison. The key piece of advice that i give my clients is – Don’t believe everything the diamond certificate tells you. After all it is only an opinion, graded by humans, who as we all know are prone to mistakes.
1. Certificate type
While the GIA is considered one of the most renown independant certificate on the market, there are some certificates that are really not worth the paper they are written on. Some are consistently at least one colour grade and clarity grade out. (to the downside) So while it might seem cheap on face value, it isn’t when you compare what you are actually getting for your money.
2. Excellent cut grade – What does that mean ?
It used to be that approximately the top 20% of stones received an excellent cut grade, today this figure is probably closer to the top 40%, as the parameters for an excellent cut grade are widening. The diamond grading laboratories like Google won’t tell you when they move them. You just need to know exactly what a perfect cut diamond looks like. Where you sit in this spectrum will not only be seen in the brilliance of the stone but the price as well. Make sure that when you are buying a diamond you don’t pay for a top 10% cut grade stone, when you are actually getting a top 30%.
3. Independently check your colour grade.
Colour grading can be affected by so many variables. How tired was the diamond grader at the time and things like excess coffee can all affect the way we perceive colour. The margin for error is so small, that it only takes a small error to cost you thousands depending on the size of diamond you are looking at. Make sure your diamond is checked by a qualified diamond grader. The colour on the left is an F colour and the one on the right is a H colour. 
4. Clarity grade – inclusion location
If you were deciding between two diamonds – one with an inclusion in the middle of the stone or one with a mark on the edge of the stone (that can be covered) i am sure you would choose the one on the edge. It is for this reason the diamonds with marks in the middle (table facet) are discounted and made cheaper. When buying a diamond always aim to have a girdle (edge) inclusion.
5. Fluorescence
A little understood characteristic. Basicly it is the way the diamond responds under ultraviolet light (like the one in discos). Anything slight to nill is ideal. Some medium fluorescent stones can be ok, but you really need to be careful as they can sometimes make the diamond look cloudy (which reduces the brilliance). Strong fluorescent stones are to be avoided – and they are much cheaper.
6. Laser inscription
This is a little be a nice to have – not need to have. The inscription is only on the surface of the stone. If someone wanted to, it is possible to have it polished off by a diamond cutter. So don’t discard a beautiful stone just because a stone doesn’t have a laser inscription
7. Not consulting a diamond expert
For complete piece of mind, it is always important to see a diamond expert when buying a diamond. You wouldn’t take your car to be serviced to someone that just sold tyers ? Like jewellery there are some who specialise in diamonds and some that just sell general jewellery. A diamond specialist will not only be able to tell you why a diamond is a better quality but be able to show you and answer any question you have about your diamond. 
At the end of the day, unless you want to look at your diamond certificate on the anniversary of your purchase every year, the diamond paper is not as important as finding the most brilliant diamond.
If you have found this helpful or have something you would like me to answer, please email me directly and i will answer any question that you have.
Gym’s are great for personal fitness but a gym will kill your rings. Some of the most destroyed pieces of jewellery i have ever seen come from avid gym trainers who wear their jewellery at the gym. If you want to protect your ring and increase its life expectancy, then here are some things to avoid the gym killing your rings.
1. Metal on metal
Gold and platinum are still soft metals compared to that of the steel bars and dumbells at a gym. The crisscross serrated pattern will cut into your ring like butter, or leaved a hammered like appearance on the metal. While this can be polished out, every time you have to polish a ring, it takes of a fine layer of gold – prematurely wearing the ring down.
2. Distorting the rings shape
When you lift weights or anything of substance it puts an uneven pressure on two sides of the ring, causing it to be pushed out of shape and have an oval appearance when placed flat on a table. The more times a ring is moved out of its centre position the more brittle it becomes. This will cause the ring to crack at its weakest point, which is usually the solder join at the bottom of the ring. While this can be repaired, if it is done to often it will wear down your ring.
3. Causing diamonds to come loose
A second factor of the ring being pushed out of shape is that it causes the top setting of your ring to open and close. This flexing motion will gradually make the stones of your engagement ring loose, which will require more trips to the jeweller for regular maintenance to have the stones tightened.
4. Dermatitis
While working up a sweat at the gym is a great goal if you are looking to tone up, sometimes it can cause dermatitis if the moisture becomes trapped under your rings. This is generally made worse in the lower carat golds such as 9ct, as there are more minor alloys that can react with your skin.
5. Rhodium plating
If you ring is made of white gold, then it most likely has a surface rhodium plating applied to it. While this process is normally redone every 2-3 years with normal wear and tear. Wearing your rings at the gym will speed up the deterioration of the rhodium.
1. Put your ring in your locker
Putting your rings in a lockable locker is perhaps the most secure option for your rings as it will avoid any metal contact. Depending on the gym that you go to, this may not be possible. For some ladies it is also a trust issue. After all your engagement and wedding ring are very sentimental, and you wouldn’t want it to be misplaced. If you are at all worried about this there is one final option.
2. Wear your ring on a chain
Choosing a metal carat that is the same as your ring is the best option. So if your ring is 18ct white gold, choose an 18ct white gold chain. Likewise if you have a platinum engagement ring or wedding ring choose a platinum chain. 9ct chains are to be avoided if you can help it. Because the 9ct is so much more brittle it is a lot more prone to snapping, which could result in the loss of your rings. The best style of chain for hanging a ring on is a Foxtail chain. It has three links reinforcing each other, so will be able to carry even the heaviest ring.
3.Try choosing a Platinum600 wedding band.
It is regular platinum wedding ring combined with Tungsten. Which means that not only can it be resized, it is twice as hard as 9ct, and even 20% harder than normal platinum.
If you do go to the gym regularly and have another solution i would love to hear it. Please email me your best gym ring saving tips.
Diamond halo engagement ring designs are extremely popular at the moment. Whether it is a centre round brilliant cut diamond or fancy shape like this radiant, the range of halo designs is always expanding.
When deciding on a halo engagement ring design there are two main design styles to choose from – grain set and claw set. Don’t worry to much about worrying if you have made the right choice as ultimately there is no right or wrong style. It’s just a matter of personal preference, and which ring you think looks better on your hands. Here are a few things to keep in mind when looking for your diamond
1. Grain set halo engagement rings
A grain set halo engagement ring is typically a single row of 1 point diamonds (0.01ct) surrounding the centre stone. However lately double row halo designs are also becoming more popular.
Advantages
Grain set diamonds are embedded into the metal and are secured with small grains/beads that hold the diamonds in. Because there is more metal around the stones, you will save money of the overall diamond weight of your ring.
Disadvantages
The grain set diamonds create a diamond set border around your centre stone. In the case of a single row this may make your centre stone stand out more, because it creates a contrast. In the case of a double row, while it might create an overall larger look, it can tend to make your centre diamond look smaller.
2. Claw set halo engagement rings
A claw set diamond halo engagement ring, uses typically 2 – 3 point diamonds (0.02 – 0.03ct) set in claw settings around your centre diamond.
Advantages
Because the surrounding diamonds are much larger it tends to give a greater sparkle that blends in more with your centre stone giving an overall much larger diamond look. The design style is also great if you have a few inclusions towards the outside of your main diamond. The sheer volume of sparkle and bling tends to make it harder to focus on the the inclusions.
Disadvantages
The only apparent disadvantage of this style is that you might loose the individualism of your centre stone. Although this is a disadvantage that many brides are willing to live with.
Diamond halo engagement ring designs need to be made by exceptional jewellers.There are two things that you must look for when choosing your engagement ring.
1. Which ever design you choose make sure that the ring is made well and there isn’t any gaps between the halo diamonds as this will give you a really gappy look. This usually happens with the jeweller has either not calculated the right spacing around the main stone or the diamond setter has selected diamonds that are too small for the setting.
2. Ensure there is not a gap between the centre diamond and the surrounding diamonds. This will not only detract from that bigger diamond look that you are aiming for, but it is also a place that hand cream, soap and dirt will collect.
At Xennox Diamonds, I always like to draw a 3D sketch of our halo diamond engagement rings, so you clients can see exactly what your ring will look like. Drawing your engagement ring to scale is extremely helpful to see how big the diamond is, and what the overlapping effect will look like. If you would like to arrange an appointment to see me and have your halo engagement ring draw, please send me an email at design@xennoxdiamonds.com.au
Matching a wedding band to your engagement ring should be an easy process if your engagement ring has been designed with this in mind. Almost every engagement ring can be made to sit flush with a wedding band. It just takes extra time and precise direction to angle the wires to a small base. While some ladies might be inclined to change their engagement ring at one time or another, most feel extremely sentimental about their wedding bands. So it is important to choose a band that you can see your self wearing for the next 40 -50 years.
Having your wedding band compliment your engagement ring perfectly can make all the difference to the way the set looks. An expert craftsmen can shape the profile of the wedding band to match the engagement ring so it looks like the two were made at the same time.
1.Solitaire
The great thing about a classic solitaire engagement ring is that you can have either a classic wedding band or a diamond wedding ring. It really depends on whether you love the”traditional” look your mum used to have or whether you would like something that reflects a bit more or “your style” The traditional wedder will generally give a a constant level of wear all around that band, as it will constantly spin on your finger.
2. Engagement rings with shoulder set diamonds
If your engagement ring has diamond set shoulder stones, the best matching option is to hand make the matching diamond band with the same setting. For example – If you have channel setting in the engagement ring, then your perfect match would be a channel set wedding band. Ideally one that starts and finishes as the same spot as your engagement ring.
When choosing the size of the diamonds in your wedding band, I always recommend choosing the same size, and shape. Remember it is not just the wedding ring you have to think of, in a years time there will be an “eternity ring” on the other side. If you do want to go bigger in the diamond size, then make sure it is noticeably bigger. Otherwise it will look like you tried to make it matching but couldn’t.
Micro pave – the philosophy behind this setting style is to make the beads holding the diamonds in as small as possible to accentuate the diamonds. The problem with this is that the settings are not as secure and the diamonds are more likely to fall out. Unfortunately with this style it is not a case or IF your are going to loose a diamond it is a matter of WHEN.
If you are looking for some advice on the best wedding ring to compliment your engagement ring, our friendly and helpful staff are always on hand to offer guidance and help you pick the perfect match to your engagement ring.
SI2 diamonds that are eye clean are becoming harder to find. They are something that takes patience and experience to find. As a qualified diamond grader, I am always searching for the most perfectly cut SI2 diamonds with the best located inclusions. Looking at a diamond’s inclusion location is just like property, it is all about location, location location. The second most important thing to understand about diamond clarity and inclusions, is that they are expressed as a percentage of the diamonds size. So the bigger the diamond, the bigger the inclusions can be; becoming more evident in larger diamonds around the 1ct plus size.
There are four main locations of SI2 diamond inclusions:
White inclusion on the edge of the diamond (rarest and most desirable) Having a specialised and qualified diamond grader hand pick your diamond with an eye clean SI2 diamond will not only make it sparkle more, but will save you money as well. It will sparkle more because the inclusions are on the edge of the diamond and not interfering with the light as it travels through the centre of the stone. This gives the diamond more brilliance and sparkle. It will save you money because you won’t need to spend money needlessly on upgrading your clarity to a VS grade.
SI2 clarity inclusions can either be:
Inclusions in the table should be avoided if at all possible. The table facet or centre of the stone is the easiest place to see any inclusions. Like something sitting below a clear glass table, once you see an inclusion, you will always see it. Your eye is trained to find the inclusion and will always go back to the same spot; one of which can be seen here just off to the left of centre in the middle of the diamond.
Inclusions on the edge are definitely preferred. The combination of facets that run around the outside edge of the diamond (star facets, kite or mainfacets, and upper girdle facets) scatter the light as it exits the stone. This provides a unique camouflage effect, making the inclusions much harder to see. Inclusions are seen here at 10 o’clock and 7 o’clock, halfway to the edge of the diamond.
One big inclusion on the girdle (edge of the diamond) is the perfect location for an inclusion. Most claw settings will cover an inclusion, provided that they don’t come too far into the centre of the stone. Even if the claw doesn’t cover 100% of the inclusion, when an inclusion comes out of a claw, it is much less noticeable as the eye is not draw to a blank space. Inclusion here is near 12 o’clock, perfectly located to be covered by a claw.
At Xennox Diamonds, our specialty is hand picking eye clean SI2 inclusions. We are always aiming for the “perfect” inclusion that you can cover with a claw. This leaves more money in your budget for maximizing your cut grade, colour grade or size. Please make sure to always avoid “Clarity Enhanced” diamonds, as these do not follow the same guidelines outlined here. If you have any questions about this blog or about what to look for when choosing a diamond, please post a comment below as I always enjoy responding.
Last Saturday, 7th September 2013 was the Legacy Defence Force Charity Ball. It was a momentous day for many reasons; not only did we have a change of government and a Wallabies football game, but the annual Australian Aerospace Defence Charity Ball supporting Legacy as well. Over 700 guests were on their feet applauding the bravery of Ms Beckie McKinney, as she told her heroic story, and the invaluable support Legacy provided to her and her two children.
As an ex-defence force member myself, supporting Legacy is something that I am very passionate about. For the second consecutive year running, Xennox Diamonds was again proud to support Legacy and the Defence Charity Ball by donating a $10,000 diamond tennis bracelet. More than 500 tickets were sold on the night and the winner was one very lucky lady.
Don’t worry if you missed out on winning the bracelet. We have decided to offer everyone that attended the Ball and entered our second chance draw the chance to win a $2,000 pair of diamond stud earrings as our way of saying thank you for supporting Legacy.
Jessica Ward
Legacy is a voluntary organisation providing services to Australian families suffering financially and socially after the death of a spouse or parent during or after their defence force service. Legacy currently cares for over 100,000 widows and 1,900 children and dependents throughout Australia. Legacy Week runs from Sunday 1st to Saturday 7th September every year, with the Legacy Defence Charity Ball held as the finale to a fantastic week of fundraising.
At Xennox Diamonds we are proud to support our troops. To give back in the one way we know how and thank them for their service, sacrifice and strength, we wish to extend a 10% discount to all the defence force men and women who have served our country. Please call us or email us to find out more about our defence discounts and special offers.
Jewellers and setters are very different trades even though they are connected to the same industry. Just as plumbers and electricians are separate trades but connected to the building trade, so too are jewellers and setters unique. Jewellers are involved in the construction of the ring, while setters are the ones responsible for securing the stones. While some jewellers can set stones, it is usually best to leave it to a professional gem setter.
In Brisbane to become a jeweller, you must complete a four year apprenticeship under a fully qualified jeweller. As in all apprenticeships, apprentices of the appropriate age are able to receive a learning wage, which makes it economical for the employer to train them. In their 4 years, apprentices should learn all the basic techniques of making simple rings and carrying out repairs. At present, and at least for the next few years you are able to complete your jewellery apprenticeship in Brisbane. However due to falling numbers at Tafe and reduced government funding the future of jewellery apprenticeship scheme seems uncertain.
Jewellery that is made especially for a particular stone is always going to be better than an “off the shelf” setting that is trying to be squeezed or stretched to fit the stone. This is especially important in three stone settings, where it is vital that the stones overlap. A professional jeweller, must not only make sure that the stones and claws are positioned in the correct places, but the shoulder stones must be angled correctly to create a pleasing level appearance. When a jeweller is making a ring, they are constantly making adjustments to improve the aesthetics of the ring, something that is impossible to do in CAD or mass produced style rings. Metal that has been hammered is also always harder and tougher than cast metal. A mass produced ring, has very little room for modification, because all the pieces are set in their current positions.
Setters
In Brisbane there is currently no provision for completing a setters apprenticeship. In England, a setters apprenticeship is normally five years. However here there is no such apprenticeship for setters, neither is there any subsidy for employers to train setters. Consequently there are no new setters being trained. The only new setters entering our industry are those that have traveled here from overseas, or are jewellers that have crossed over to become full time setters.
Setters are crucial to maintaining the highest quality finish of a piece. Even if the ring is expertly hand crafted, if it is set poorly, the finished ring will look terrible. It is the setters job, to ensure that the stones are not only secured correctly and tightly into the ring, but they are also set level and straight. Stones that are not securely are prone to coming loose and falling out over time. If the shoulder diamonds have not been set well, there may be gaps between the stones. Channel set rings, will not have straight bright cuts (the inside lines between the stone and the metal) , and their may be gaps at the end of the channel. This will become noticeable as the rings become dirty, as the dirt often gets trapped in the gaps. It goes without saying that the centre stone should be properly set. Poorly set centre stones, will not only through off the symmetry of the ring, if they are not set in the middle, but they can also be prone to coming loose, and if not regularly checked – lost. Another symptom of a stone that hasn’t been set correctly is catching of threads under the claws. A properly set stone should be nice and smooth on top, and have no gap between the stone and the claw. If you are finding that your clothes are catching on your claws, simply bring them into us, and we can secure the claws correctly on your stone.
At Xennox Diamonds, we have full time jewellers and a setter, to make sure there is never any compromise in the finished product. Our standard for choosing to only work with the best diamonds and metals, applies to our jewellers and setter too, to ensure that you will receive enjoyment from your treasured piece for many years to come. If you are finding your are having problems with your setting, please don’t hesitate to email us, or pop in for a free inspection.
As a family owned Jewellery business, i am proud to say that we are 100% Australian owned. Jewellery has always been in our family and was a big part of my up bringing. Being a second generation business, it gives me a lot of joy, to carry on the Xennox name, and uphold all the values that have been established over the last 37 years. My main drive and passion is to make Xennox diamonds, a name that is synonymous with high quality diamonds, jewellers who specialse in hand made manufacturing and unparalleled service.
My belief is that the answer to any client’s question is “YES”. There is nothing that our jewellers can’t do, or won’t do for our clients. There is always a way to achieve the desired outcome, its just a matter of finding a way. My job as the designer is to find the way. We always strive to do anything we can to help our clients, whether its giving advice, or helping a client restore a piece, their happiness is always paramount.
I never compromise on quality. I would always rather our jewellers scrap a piece and start again, then give something to a client that i am not 100% happy with. One of the great things about being extremely fussy, is that the finished product will always achieve a higher result. The benefit of upholding yourself to the highest standards, is that you get to work with really nice stones.
Our minimum diamond quality that we try and aim for is an F colour. This forms part of the white diamond range. While some jewellers will tell you that a G colour stone sits in the “near colourless” range. For me a G colour diamond pulls too much yellow. I find that most clients, can tell the difference between an F and a G colour, when placed side by side. The colour difference of an E colour is even more noticeable. I like to personally inspect every main diamond that we sell to ensure that our diamonds are “eye clean”. Where ever possible i try and find diamonds that have girdle inclusions. If a diamond must have an inclusion i always try and aim for a white inclusions, instead of a black carbon mark.
Dealing direct with the diamond cutters overseas, i have learnt a lot about how to get the best performance out of a stone. A diamond’s cut standard is something i am really passionate about. It is the only thing man has control over, and is the only reason a diamond sparkles. If you want the brightest cut diamond on the market, we recommend a Passion8 “Hearts and Arrows” diamond. Like a mechanic who listens to an engine to see what is right or wrong with an engine, i love looking into a diamond to see what the cutter has done right or could have done better at.
An excellent cut grade from the GIA, only tells you that a diamond falls within certain parameters. Approximately the top 30% of stones that go to the GIA, will get an excellent cut grade. According to the GIA, a diamond with a table facet percentage of 61% will still be eligible to receive an excellent cut grade. However i would never buy a stone with a percentage over 58%. This is why it is so crucial to have a diamond cut expert to look at your diamond.
At Xennox Diamonds, we are passionate about you and the jewellery we make for you. Whether you have just started your journey or you know exactly what you want, we are always happy to spend the time and sit down with you. Our reward is seeing our clients blown away, and it is what I and my jewellers always strive for.
Karl
Diamonds….. Is there such a thing as too many ? In years gone by, a traditional wedding band was considered just a plain band, either in white gold or yellow gold. However these days the traditional band is more an exception rather than the rule. In my experience only 1 in 50 brides will ask for a traditional wedding band. If you are trying to decide whether you should have a diamond wedding band, here are a few important things to consider.
If your diamond engagement ring is a traditional solitaire, then either a diamond wedding band or a traditional wedding ring will suit. However If your engagement ring has diamonds in the shoulders, then the complimentary wedding band is almost always a matching diamond wedding ring. Usually the width of the band compliments the engagement ring. Unless of course the engagement ring is quite wide (greater than 4mm), then it is quite acceptable to have a finer wedding band (around 2mm-2.5mm).
As mentioned in the previous paragraph, if you are matching the width, then it is a good idea to match the setting style as well. If you are going finer, then a great style to utilise is a grain setting. A grain setting, so named, because the beads holding the diamonds in, look like little grains, is ideal for creating a diamond border. This diamond border affect can really accentuate the centre engagement ring. Sometimes if you are choosing a wedding band that is much finer than the engagement ring, it is a good idea to go for a split diamond wedder. This is usually done to create symmetry with your ring. Depending on your need for symmetry, some brides will wait for the first year eternity ring, others will jump at the opportunity for some extra “bling”.
If a grain set wedding band is not your style, another style to consider is a shared claw wedding band. When selecting this style it is crucial that you ensure the band width is 3 tenths of a millimetre wider than the diamond. For example, if the diamond used is a 2mm diamond (0.03ct) than the width of the band should be 2.3mm. This is done to ensure the diamonds are not over hanging the band. If this was to occur, it will cause the diamonds to come loose more often, as they bump against the engagement ring.
Normally it is a good idea to match your wedding band diamonds to the shoulder diamonds of your engagement ring. The exception to this is with a princess cut diamond. Princess cut diamonds are best suited for channel settings, where the corners can be protected. If you would like to create a contrast, round brilliant cut diamonds seem to be the ideal all rounder, particularly if you need a fitted (curved) wedding band. The claws that sit in between the round diamonds create a more square effect, yet still allowing the wedding band to curve around the setting.
If you want to vary the width of your wedding band, then it is a good idea to vary it by at least half a millimetre. That way the variation will look intentional, rather than you tried to match the engagement ring unsuccessfully.
Whether you decide to have a diamond set wedding ring or a traditional band, will come down to your own personal taste. Ultimately there is no right or wrong ring, as long as you like the way that it looks and that it meets all of your requirements. If you are ever unsure what wedding ring suits your engagement ring, we are always here to show you all the options, so that you can see whether diamonds in your wedding band are for you.
As an award-winning jeweller, we would love to work with you and help you create your dream wedding ring.
Alternatively, why don’t you come to our luxury showroom and we can talk in person? We would love to have you here for a Discovery Session where we can help you choose the wedding rings that will suit you best.
Let us take some of the pressure off some of those things on your wedding to-do list so all you have to do is book an appointment today.
Jewellers are not just craftsmen they are artists too. People are often amazed at how these artificers of metal, are able to manipulate gold and gemstones into the beautiful finished creations, that are adored for generations. But have you ever wondered how long you would have to train to be an exceptional jeweller to create these amazing pieces ?
A basic jewellers apprenticeship takes about 4 years, and not only has on the job training, but a considerable amount of time at tafe as well. In this time they are taught a variety of skills, ranging from hand making jewellery to producing wax pieces and masters for mass production.
The completion of a Jewellers apprenticeship really only marks the start of their journey. For at least the next 3-4 years, jewellers will learn to hone their basic skills they have learnt so far and apply them in a range of new fields. At the end of this time, if they have worked hard and diligently, most can expect to reach a good standard.
The next stage after that, often involves the jewellers moving around to different workshops and learning from a range of other jewellers. In our industry, you can’t learn all there is to know from a book. The best way to grow is through experience and learning by watching others. A jeweller can easily spend the next 7 years learning the finer aspects of the trade, which could involve working with platinum, cluster settings and fine tuning their tools to achieve a better finished piece.
The last category i put only a handful of jewellers into is the exceptional category. While some jewellers can achieve this after a further 10 years, some can work a lifetime and never obtain it. In some European countries like Germany, you can actually go back to college and graduate as a Master Jeweller. This requires many years of study and assessment, and is not a term that is given out lightly.
The next time you look at an amazing piece of jewellery that has been expertly hand crafted, it is worthwhile remembering that the ring did not just take 12 or 16 hours to complete. It represents someone who has spent more than a decade of relentless pursuit of excellence to ensure you have a symbol of your love that will last a lifetime.
