ALLOY

Alloy is a metallurgical term that refers to a mixture of two or more metals. Most metals used in jewellery are alloyed together, either to alter the metal’s color, or to give it greater strength.

ANNIVERSARY RING 

Also known as an Eternity Ring, most usually worn on the third finger of the left hand, with the diamond engagement ring and most often bought to celebrate a wedding anniversary. This ring can also be worn on the third finger of the right hand as well. Traditionally a full or half band of diamonds but nowadays design is very much a matter of individual choice.

ARGYLE DIAMOND

Diamond sourced from the Argyle Mine in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, the world’s most productive mine.

BAGUETTE

This refers to a rectangular-shaped small diamond that looks very similar to an emerald cut diamond.

BEZEL FACET

On a round brilliant diamond, these are eight large kite-shaped facets on the crown. Also called top main facet.

BRILLIANCE

Brilliance describes the reflections of white light coming from the diamond.

BRILLIANT CUT DIAMOND

Round diamond with 57 facets (58 if there is a culet). Round brilliant cut diamonds are more brilliant than any of the fancy-shaped stones.

CARAT WEIGHT 

The metric carat, which equals 0.200 gram, is the standard unit of weight for diamonds and most other gems.

CHANNEL SETTING

A Setting that has a row of stones set between two strips of metal to hold the stones at the sides. Used for round, baguette and square-cut stones, the channel setting resembles a railway track with the diamonds in the centre.

CLARITY

The stone’s relative position on the flawless to imperfect scale. Clarity characteristics are classified as inclusions (internal) or blemishes (external). The size, number, position, nature, and colour determine the clarity grade.

COLOUR

Grading colour in the normal range involves deciding how closely a stone’s body colour approaches colourlessness. Some diamonds have at least a trace of yellow or brown body colour. With the important exception of some fancy colours, such as blue, pink, purple, or red.

CROWN

The part of the diamond that is above the girdle. It consists of the table and the crown facets below it.

CROWN ANGLE

The angle measured between the girdle plane and the bezel facets. Along with the table size, the crown angle helps determine the amount of dispersion displayed by the diamond.

CUT

The proportions and finish of a polished diamond (also called make). Cut affects both the weight yield from rough and the optical efficiency of the polished stone, the more successful the cutter is in balancing these considerations, the more valuable the stone will be.

CULET

The smallest (58th) facet at the bottom of a full-cut diamond. Some diamonds do not have a culet (none or pointed is how the culet of that diamond will be described).

DIAMOND ANNIVERSARY

60th anniversary of year of marriage, whilst on the “modern” anniversary calendar diamond jewellery is designated as the appropriate gift for a 10th wedding anniversary.

DIAMOND MONTH

April is Diamond Month on the Birthstone Calender.

DIAMOND TENNIS BRACELET

A bracelet featuring a full hoop of diamonds, suitable for casual or formal wear.

EMERALD CUT 

A rectangular diamond cut.

FACET

Plane, polished surface of a diamond.

FANCY COLOURED DIAMOND

A diamond with an attractive natural body colour. Colours range from yellow, blue and green to pink , red and black.

FANCY CUT

A diamond cut in any shape other than round. Fancy cuts include such shapes as baguette, emerald, pear, princess, oval, marquise, heart, teardrop and trilliant.

FEATHER

An inclusion in a diamond that looks like a white feather.

FLAW

An imperfection in the stone.

FLUORESCENCE

The property in many diamonds that makes them fluoresce in an environment rich in ultraviolet light. Faint to medium fluorescence is rarely detected under ordinary lighting conditions. Strong or very strong fluorescence may make a diamond appear “milky” or “oily”, especially in sunlight.

FRACTURE FILLING

A diamond enhancement process whereby a cavity in a diamond is filled with an artificial substance. This enhancement is usually not permanent.

GIA

Gemological Institute of America Gem Trade Lab. A well-respected independent laboratory which grades diamonds according to colour, clarity , overall cut, polish and symmetry.

GIRDLE

The outer edge or the widest part of the diamond forming a band around the stone.

GRAIN SETTING 

In grain setting, gemstones are fit into small holes and set almost level with the surface of the ring. They are set with no metal between them, giving the appearance of the gemstones having been paved (Pavé is French for paved), like a cobblestone road. A grain setting is a single row of Pave.

HAMMER SET

A setting technique used to set diamonds so that they are flush with the metal.

INCLUSION

Imperfection internal to the diamond. Some examples are: feathers, crystals, needles, clouds and pinpoints.

KARAT

14 Karat This gold is 14 parts of gold to 10 parts other metals, such as copper, nickel, etc. The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. This level of purity in Gold is quite common in the West, a lot of the jewellery produced there is of this karatage.

18 Karat (18k) gold is 18 parts of gold to 6 parts other metals, such as copper, nickel, etc. The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. 18 Karat gold is the most widely used gold to produce studded jewellery. This is so because 22 karat is too soft to set any stones.

22 Karat (22k) gold is 22 parts of gold to 2 parts of other metals, such as copper, nickel, etc. The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. 22 karat is most widely used in India to make gold jewellery.

24 Karat (24k) gold is pure gold containing no other metals. The gold content of a piece of jewellery is measured in Karats, which can range from 1 to 24. 24 karat is the purest karatage of Gold. Coins and other Bullion is usually of this karatage

LASER DRILLING

A diamond enhancement technique whereby a laser is used to drill to an inclusion which is then bleached to enhance the diamond’s appearance.

LOUPE

Magnifying glass used in the trade to examine diamonds.

LOWER-GIRDLE FACET

The facets on the pavilion of a round brilliant just below the girdle.

MELEE

Small diamonds under 0.20 carat.

MOHS SCALE

The 10-point scale of mineral hardness. Diamond scores 10 on Mohs Scale. The diamond is the hardest of all known natural substances. A sapphire and ruby are rated as a 9 on the hardness scale.

OLD EUROPEAN CUT DIAMOND

The earliest known form of brilliant cut diamond with a very small table, heavy crown and large depth.

PAVE SETTING

A setting technique for small diamonds in which the stones are set so closely together that no metal shows. The effect achieved makes the surface appear as it has been paved with diamonds.

PAVILION

The bottom part of the diamond below the girdle.

PAVILION MAIN FACET

The eight facets found on the pavilion of a round brilliant diamond. Their points touch the girdle.

PRINCESS CUT DIAMOND

A diamond that is square in shape, also a very bright diamond, and similar in sparkle to the brilliant cut diamond.

POINT

100th of a carat.

RHODIUM PLATING

Rhodium is a white, metallic element. A Rhodium finish is usually applied to white gold jewellery to give the effect of white gloss finish.

ROUGH DIAMOND

Diamond as it is first found in the ground, before it has been cut and polished.

RUB OVER

This technique of setting is the same as the bezel setting.

SCINTILLATION

Sparkle. The tiny flashes of light noticeable in a diamond when the observer moves his/her head.

STAR FACET

One of the eight triangular facets found on the upper crown section (next to the table) of a brilliant-cut diamond.

SOLITAIRE

The mounting of a single gemstone.

SYMMETRY

Labs grade symmetry from poor to excellent, based on the diamond’s proportions and the relation of one facet to another (meet-point faceting).

TABLE

The largest facet which sits on top of a diamond. This is where most of the light enters and exits a diamond.

TABLE PERCENTAGE

The width of the table divided by the average diameter.

UPPER-GIRDLE FACET

One of the 15 facets found on the lower crown portion of the diamond (abutting the girdle).